Soldering iron: pencil, station, instant-heat or gas?

"I bought a more powerful soldering iron because the solder wouldn't take, and now I'm burning the boards." It is a story I hear often. The problem was almost never the power: it was the tip, or the wrong soldering iron for the job.

Four soldering irons, four trades

• Pencil type: the classic, with fixed power. Fine for wiring and simple jobs. It does not regulate the temperature, so on delicate components you have to be quick.
• Temperature-controlled station: the right choice for electronics and for anyone who solders often. You set the temperature and the station holds it even when the tip touches a wide track that soaks up heat.
• Instant soldering gun: heats up in a few seconds, handy for quick jobs on wires and terminals. It is not a tool for fine electronics.
• Gas: no cable, so you can take it where there is no power. Useful in maintenance and on vehicles. Some have piezo ignition, others manual.

In the collection you will find all these families, from Fervi and Vigor among others, as well as hammer-type soldering irons for those who work tinplate.

The tip: the real secret

An oxidised tip does not transmit heat. So the temperature gets turned up, the tip oxidises even more, and you get into a cycle that ends with lifted tracks. There are only a few rules:

• clean the tip often on the damp sponge or on the special metal wool;
• when you put it down, leave it with a film of solder on it: that protects it;
• don't file it: tips have a coating, and if you remove it they are only fit for the bin;
• choose the right shape: fine tip for small components, chisel tip for pads and thick wires.

Temperature and flux

The right temperature is the one that makes the solder flow in a short time, not the highest possible. If you have to stay on the joint for many seconds, the tip is too small or dirty, not the station too weak. And flux is not an optional extra: on slightly oxidised surfaces it makes the difference between a shiny joint and a dull blob that does not hold.

A pyrography pen is something else

A pyrography pen heats a tip to engrave wood, leather and similar materials. It is not designed for soldering, and a soldering iron is not a good pyrography pen: the tips and the control are different. If you need one for decorating or marking, tell me and I will point you to one with suitable tips.

Safety at the bench

It sounds trivial, but always use the stand and do not rest the hot soldering iron on the bench. Work in a ventilated place: flux fumes are not to be breathed in. With gas models, check the cartridge and do not leave them near sources of heat.

What I need to know

• what work you do: electronics, wiring, sheet-metal work or pyrography;
• how often you use it and whether you work at the bench or out and about;
• if you already have a station and only need spare tips: bring me the model.

We stock these

A few items from the range we keep. If you cannot find the size or the model you need, just ask: what you see online is only part of what we can source for you.

Solder in sticksA.M.E.S. srl Pencil soldering irons kemperA.M.E.S. srl Pencil soldering ironA.M.E.S. srl Pencil soldering iron FerviFervi Instant soldering irons V-Sc100 curved cut 100 W VigorVigor Instant soldering irons V-Sc 60 curved cut 60 W VigorVigor

Browse the whole category: Soldering Irons, Gas Torches and Pyrography Pens